peak rising to
the west of the Ganja La pass (5,122m/16,800ft) Ascending to Ganja
La and the summit of Naya Kanga offer the spectacular panoramic
views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet including Langshisa Ri
(6,370m/20,894ft), Pemthang Ri (6,836m/22,422ft), Shisapangma
(8,046m/27,749ft), Langtang Lirung (7,425m/24,354ft), Pemthang Kapro
Ri (6,830m/22,402ft) and Langtang II (6,571m/21,553ft). The normal
route of ascent to Naya Kanga is via the north - east ridge over a
line on ice and snow. We follow the route of Langtang trek to
Kyangjin (3,749m/12,297ft) for the ascent of Naya Kanga. To the
north above Kangjin, there are several hills that provide both the
magnificent views and acclimatization. Northeast of Kyangjin Ri
(4,700m/15,416ft), there are two peaks; Yala Peak (5,500m/18,040ft)
and Tsergo Peak (5,749m/18,857ft) that provide good climbing for
acclimatization.
North-East Face & North Ridge
Crossing the Langtang Khola below Kyangjin, we climb steeply along
the ridge through a forest of rhododendron and juniper. Finally
climbing more gently, we arrive at yak pastures of Ngegang at about
4000m. We continue following the trail to Ganja La climbing steeply
through moraine . We leave Ganja La trail to climb steeply up yet
more moraine to reach the eastern end of the glacier shelf beneath
the north-east face of Naya Kanga. We set up the high camp here for
the ascent. We cross the glacier shelf to the foot of a shallow
couloir heading to the north ridge. We climb the couloir to the
notch and the base of the ridge . Then we turn to the ice nose on
the left which is only the technical section on the climb. Now the
ridge widens and leads to a small col. on the east-west summit ridge
and the summit is only 30m higher to the right. The climb near the
summit should be done carefully. Normally, the ascent takes 5-7
hours from the high camp. For the return trek, we may follow Ganja
La-Helambu route or back the way we came in to Dhunche. |
