point leads to
the summit of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending
south-west is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to
the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but
also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in
the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse
(7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse
Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu
(8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more
charm for climbing Island Peak.
South East Flank & South-West Ridge
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between
Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not
be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the
event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatized
party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base
camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing a
High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route
skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep
grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully
which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the
left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier
(5,280m). From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across
the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice
ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge.
Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep
climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has
developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top
difficult.
North Ridge Route
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two
Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col
(5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached
by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the
moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before
climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first
ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge
which is a magnificient snow arete, due south. This steepens for the
final summit pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult
under soft snow conditions and may under other contiditions have a
marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal
route, and is graded alpine PD+. |
